Enchanting Umbria: Exploring Assisi, Perugia, Gubbio, Narni, Montefalco, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto
Duomo in Orvieto, Italy
Umbria, Italy
Umbria, Italy, the landlocked region to the east of Tuscany, offers up a treasure trove of historical, architectural, and gastronomic delights. Many Americans go to Tuscany and aren’t aware of this fantastic area.
Last June, Terri visited five of Umbria’s most beautiful villages which we shared in our latest YouTube video. These villages are Assisi, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto.
In May 2024, we visited Narni, Perugia, Montefalco, Gubbio, Deruta (we don’t recommend), and once again stayed in the castle just outside the medieval walls of Perugia.
Most of these villages can be enjoyed in a few hours allowing you to see two villages in a day. We recommend enjoying the morning at one village, driving to the next, having a leisurely lunch and then wandering around the second village. For Terri, this meant she could enjoy wine with lunch and still be comfortable driving back to Perugia at the end of the day.
Perugia
Perugia
Perugia is centrally located when visiting Umbria. Castello di Monterone is a reasonably priced castle with lovely people, views, and amenities just across the valley from the Perugia city center making it an ideal place to stay while exploring the area. This is Terri’s go-to place to stay in Umbria.
With so much to see and do in Umbria, we only spent an afternoon and evening in Perugia. It’s a beautiful and sprawling city that we hope to spend more time exploring next time we are in Umbria. See what’s it’s like in early May in our video on Montefalco.
Gubbio
Gubbio
We loved Gubbio. It’s about 45 minutes north of Perugia, and 2.5 hours southeast of Florence.
Perched on the slopes of Mount Ingino in the heart of Umbria, Gubbio is a living testament to Italy's medieval past. This remarkably preserved town, with its austere grey limestone buildings and labyrinthine streets, offers visitors a genuine step back in time.
Check out our video on Gubbio…a place you definitely don’t want to miss while in Umbria.
Historical Significance
Gubbio's history stretches back to the pre-Roman era, with roots in ancient Umbrian civilization. The town played a significant role in medieval Italy, evident in its impressive architectural heritage:
Palazzo dei Consoli: This 14th-century Gothic masterpiece dominates the townscape. Now a museum, it houses the Iguvine Tablets, ancient bronze plates crucial to understanding the Umbrian language.
Piazza Grande: Suspended like a balcony over the town, this stunning piazza offers panoramic views of the Umbrian countryside. We have way too many pictures of this piazza and the spectacular view.
Duomo (Cathedral): A fine example of Gothic architecture, built in the 12th century and dedicated to Saints Mariano and Giacomo.
Unique Traditions
Gubbio is renowned for its vibrant cultural traditions:
Corsa dei Ceri: Held annually on May 15th, this ancient race sees three teams carry enormous wooden "candles" through the town's streets, ending at the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo. We missed this by a few days but got a full history lesson on the tradition by one of the guys working at the Museo delle Arti e dei Mestieri at the base of the village.
World's Largest Christmas Tree: From December 7th to January 10th, Mount Ingino is transformed into a colossal Christmas tree with over 700 lights, visible for miles. Don’t be deceived; it’s not an actual tree. The mountain is used as the backdrop for the lights to create the illusion of a tree.
Palio della Balestra: A crossbow competition held on the last Sunday of May, pitting Gubbio against rival town Sansepolcro.
Gastronomic Delights
Umbrian cuisine shines in Gubbio:
Sample local truffle dishes, a regional specialty
Try the 'crescia', a flatbread often stuffed with local cheeses and cured meats (we didn’t learn about this until after we returned home).
Savor Umbrian wines, including the robust Sagrantino which was perfect on warm, early summer day.
Practical Tips for Visitors
There’s parking at the base of the village.
Leave time to wander through the charming shops.
Don’t miss out on taking a ride to the top of Mount Ingino in the Funivia Colle Eletto, a unique cage-like cable car, offers a thrilling ride to the top of Mount Ingino. It’s like being in a birdcage attached to a ski lift and pretty sedate on the ascent with a thrilling descent.
The restaurant at the top is good and has a spectacular view of the valley and the village.
Whether you're wandering through its medieval streets, indulging in local cuisine, or partaking in age-old traditions, Gubbio offers an authentic and unforgettable Umbrian experience.
Assisi, Italy
Assisi, Italy
Assisi is perhaps the most well-known village in Umbria, besides Perugia. It is 27 km east of Perugia and has extraordinary historic architecture and views. It is the birthplace of St. Francis, who founded the Franciscan religious order in the town in 1208, and St. Clare (Chiara d'Offreducci), the founder of the Poor Sisters, which later became the Order of Poor Clares.
What to see and do?
—Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi: this is the two level, medieval basilica built in the 13th century that houses the crypt where St. Francis is buried.
—Museo e Foro Romano: museum of ancient Roman remnants. Pro tip: when you get the ticket for this, get the ticket that includes the bell tower and the Pinacoteca Comunale.
—Temple of Minerva: the inner chamber (cella) of the Temple of Minerva was completely demolished to make room for the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva in 1539. In the 17th century it was renovated in the Baroque style that exists today.
—Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva
—Torre del Popolo: this is the bell tower attached to the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Climb to the top for the magnificent views.
—Pinacoteca Comunale: this is a small, and most likely uncrowded, museum with extraordinary frescoes dating back to the 17th century. Pro tip: they have air conditioning and restrooms.
—Enjoy an Aperol spritz by the central fountain, Fountain of the 3 Lions, while you watch people walk by and cars and truck attempt to navigate the steep and narrow streets.
—Stroll (or call it a hike) the hilly village while enjoying the views, a gelato, and the various shops.
There’s a parking garage at the base of the hill that charged a nominal fee.
Spello, Italy
Spello, Italy
Spello is known as one of the most beautiful and flowery villages in Italy. It’s a charming, hilly, mostly car-free medieval village located 30 km southeast of Perugia. There are several beautiful churches including Santa Maria Maggiore and the views from the top are stunning. There are cute shops and restaurants, and a Enoteca Properzia, a lovely place to enjoy a glass of wine before venturing down the hill.
There is a free parking lot at the base of the village. Wear comfy shoes as the hills are steep but worth the climb.
Montefalco
Montefalco, Italy
Montefalco is 45 minutes south of Perugia and 2 hours north of Rome. It’s a relatively small hilltop village, known as the "Balcony of Umbria" for its panoramic views of the Umbrian Valley. It too has medieval architecture, artistic treasures, and world-class wines.
Grab a glass of wine and enjoy our video on Montefalco from May 2024.
Historical Significance
Montefalco's history dates back to the Middle Ages, with traces of Etruscan and Roman civilizations:
Town Walls: The well-preserved 13th-century walls encircle the historic center, offering a glimpse into medieval defensive architecture.
Piazza del Comune: The main square, surrounded by historic palazzi, serves as the town's vibrant heart (shown in the picture above).
Church of Sant'Agostino: This 13th-century church houses important frescoes from the Umbrian school of painting.
Artistic Heritage
Montefalco is a treasure trove of Renaissance art:
Museum of San Francesco: Housed in a former Franciscan church, it showcases frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli depicting the life of St. Francis. This is a delightful museum with an extraordinary collection, given the petite size of the museum. When we were there, there was a beautiful exhibition with floor to ceiling modern paintings, several of which we would hang in our home.
Perugino's Nativity: Found in the Church of San Francesco, this fresco is one of the artist's masterpieces.
Wine Country
Montefalco is synonymous with exceptional wines:
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG: A robust red wine unique to the region, known for its intense flavor and aging potential.
Montefalco Rosso DOC: A blend typically featuring Sangiovese and Sagrantino grapes.
Wine Tours: Many local wineries offer tours and tastings, providing insight into the winemaking process.
Gastronomic Delights
The local cuisine perfectly complements the wines:
Savor traditional dishes like strangozzi (hand-rolled pasta) with black truffles
Try the local olive oil, another prized product of the region
Indulge in Umbrian cured meats, particularly prosciutto di Norcia
Annual Events
Montefalco's calendar is dotted with engaging events:
Settimana Enologica: A week-long wine festival held in September, celebrating the new vintage.
Agosto Montefalchese: A series of cultural events throughout August, including music, theater, and food festivals.
Practical Tips for Visitors
The town is small and easily explored on foot, but comfortable shoes are recommended for the hilly terrain.
Many wineries require advance booking for tours and tastings.
Consider visiting during spring or fall to enjoy pleasant weather and potentially witness the grape harvest.
Whether you're an art enthusiast, a wine connoisseur, or simply seeking the authentic charm of a small Umbrian town, Montefalco offers a rich and flavorful experience that lingers long after your visit.
Narni
Narni, Italy
Narni is halfway between Rome and Perugia (one hour to each) which made it the perfect place for us to stop for lunch and walk around on our drive from Rome to Perugia. Unfortunately, we were there on a drizzly Tuesday afternoon in early May and most of the restaurants were closed leaving us with only one option which worked out fine. We wandered into a building and accidentally discovered the Church of Santa Maria Impensole.
Perched atop a rocky hill overlooking the Nera River, Narni is a small Umbrian town with a rich history despite being overlooked by tourists in favor of its more famous neighbors.
Take a peak at it through our eyes in our video from our visit in May 2024.
Historical Significance
Narni's history stretches back to ancient times:
Ancient Origins: Founded by the Umbri and later becoming a Roman municipality named Narnia in 299 BC.
Medieval Power: A significant town in the Middle Ages, as evidenced by its impressive fortifications and churches.
Papal Rule: Narni was part of the Papal States from the 8th century until the unification of Italy in the 19th century.
Key Attractions
Rocca Albornoziana: A 14th-century fortress offering panoramic views of the Nera Valley.
Narni Underground: A complex of underground rooms including a church, prison cells, and a Roman cistern, discovered in 1979. In May, tours are available on the weekends so we missed out on this.
Cathedral of San Giovenale: A 12th-century Romanesque church with beautiful frescoes and a crypt.
Palazzo dei Priori: The town hall, featuring a beautiful facade and a clock tower.
Church of Santa Maria Impensole: A unique church built into the rock face, with parts dating back to the 11th century. This is impressive and awe inspiring.
Local Traditions and Events
Narni keeps its traditions alive through various events:
Corsa all'Anello: A medieval festival held in May, featuring a horse race, parades, and historical reenactments. This must happen only on the weekends because the town was very quiet when we were there on a Tuesday during the festival period.
Narni Black Festival: A summer event celebrating Narni's connection to the fantasy genre, inspired by its link to Narnia. There are rumors that CS Lewis was inspired by Narni when he wrote The Chronicles of Narnia, based on having seen the name Narnia on an atlas as a child.
Culinary Delights
Narni offers a taste of authentic Umbrian cuisine:
Try the local pasta dish "Manfricoli", a thick spaghetti-like pasta often served with truffles or wild asparagus.
Sample the region's excellent olive oils and wines, including the local Ciliegiolo di Narni.
Don't miss the opportunity to taste wild boar, a specialty in this area. We had a good wild boar pasta at one of the local restaurants and you can find wild boar dishes all throughout Umbria.
Practical Tips for Visitors
Narni is compact and best explored on foot, but be prepared for some uphill walks.
The Narni Underground tours should be booked in advance, especially during peak season. We dropped in on a random weekday without any preparation and we were not able to take advantage of this.
Since we were there on a Tuesday, many of the restaurants were closed and we had limited options.
Consider visiting during the Corsa all'Anello in May for a truly immersive experience in local culture.
Whether you're drawn by its mysterious underground, captivated by its medieval charm, or intrigued by its possible connection to a beloved fantasy world, Narni offers a unique and memorable Umbrian experience off the beaten tourist path.
Spoleto
Spoleto, Italy
35 km south of Spello is Spoleto, a sprawling historic village that wasn’t Terri’s favorite and she doesn’t recommend visiting. If you do decide to go, there are several paid parking lots around town as you navigate the city to find something charming like the Duomo di Spoleto shown above. There is a cafe on the piazza where you can get a coffee as you watch people in the plaza.
Other sites to see if you do choose to go to Spoleto:
—Basilica di San Pietro
—Roman amphitheater
—Church of San Salvatore
There were shops and restaurants in the village as you meandered through the streets.
Todi, Italy, Piazza del Popolo
Todi, Italy
45 km south of Perugia is Todi, another medieval Umbrian village with beautiful views, Piazza del Popolo (plaza of the people), restaurants, and shopping. The Todi Cathedral is a Gothic style church on the Piazza del Popolo and is worth walking through to enjoy the artwork and rose stained glass window. This is a small but quiet town that is easily visited in an afternoon, including lunch. Find a restaurant with views of the surrounding valley.
Pay attention to the parking and street signs and much is limited to locals.
Duomo di Orvieto
Orvieto, Italy
80 km south of Perugia is Orvieto, home to not only the Orvieto Cathedral (Duomo di Orvieto), but also an Etruscan necropolis (ancient burial site literally translated to city of the dead). If you park up at the top, the walk to the necropolis is over a mile and it is a very pretty hike. Just remember, it’s over a mile back up but still pretty and you can get close to the fortress walls.
If you wish to view the necropolis, stop at the snack bar on the way to Orvieto, park, and walk around the necropolis. Then continue on up to the base of the town to park in one of the paid parking lots. There’s a funicular that will take up to the village or you can walk. We recommend walking so you can enjoy all of Orvieto.
Do not miss the Duomo di Orvieto. If you walk around long enough, you can’t help but turn a corner and be stunned by this majestic, gothic cathedral. Pro tip: tickets to go inside can be purchased across the piazza from the cathedral. It costs around 5 or 7 euro and is well worth the price of admission.
There is a large clock tower, Torre del Moro, that you can climb and enjoy the views of the surrounding area. We heard it costs 5 euros per person.
Orvieto is halfway between Florence and Rome and nearly halfway between Perugia and Rome.
View of Perugia from across the valley
Resist the temptation to go to only go to Tuscany…everyone goes to Tuscany. Take a risk and explore all that Umbria has to offer. During our next trip, we are considering going to Gubbio, Norcia, Montefalco, Narni (the village that inspired CS Lewis…Narnia), Deruta, Lake Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago, Monti Sibillini, and Marmore Falls (Cascata delle Marmore). So many incredible choices!
To see more pictures and videos of Umbria, including some tips for traveling in the air, be sure to watch our video Enchanting Umbria: Exploring Assisi, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto.