Enchanting Umbria: Exploring Assisi, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto

Duomo in Orvieto, Italy

Umbria, Italy

Umbria, Italy, the landlocked region to the east of Tuscany, offers up a treasure trove of historical, architectural, and gastronomic delights. Many Americans go to Tuscany and aren’t aware of this fantastic area.

Last June, Terri visited five of Umbria’s most beautiful villages which we shared in our latest YouTube video. These villages are Assisi, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto.

Most of these villages can be enjoyed in a few hours allowing you to see two villages in a day. We recommend enjoying the morning at one village, driving to the next, having a leisurely lunch and then wandering around the second village. For Terri, this meant she could enjoy wine with lunch and still be comfortable driving back to Perugia at the end of the da.y

Perugia

Perugia is centrally located when visiting Umbria. Castello di Monterone is a reasonably priced castle with lovely people, views, and amenities just across the valley from the Perugia city center making it an ideal place to stay while exploring the area.

We plan to spend a full day exploring Perugia when we are there in May. Subscribe to our YouTube channel for the daily videos on our May trip to Italy and France.

Assisi, Italy

Assisi, Italy

Assisi is perhaps the most well-known village in Umbria, besides Perugia. It is 27 km east of Perugia and has extraordinary historic architecture and views. It is the birthplace of St. Francis, who founded the Franciscan religious order in the town in 1208, and St. Clare (Chiara d'Offreducci), the founder of the Poor Sisters, which later became the Order of Poor Clares.

What to see and do?

Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi: this is the two level, medieval basilica built in the 13th century that houses the crypt where St. Francis is buried.

Museo e Foro Romano: museum of ancient Roman remnants. Pro tip: when you get the ticket for this, get the ticket that includes the bell tower and the Pinacoteca Comunale.

Temple of Minerva: the inner chamber (cella) of the Temple of Minerva was completely demolished to make room for the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva in 1539.  In the 17th century it was renovated in the Baroque style that exists today.

Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva

Torre del Popolo: this is the bell tower attached to the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. Climb to the top for the magnificent views.

Pinacoteca Comunale: this is a small, and most likely uncrowded, museum with extraordinary frescoes dating back to the 17th century. Pro tip: they have air conditioning and restrooms.

Enjoy an Aperol spritz by the central fountain, Fountain of the 3 Lions, while you watch people walk by and cars and truck attempt to navigate the steep and narrow streets.

Stroll (or call it a hike) the hilly village while enjoying the views, a gelato, and the various shops.

There’s a parking garage at the base of the hill that charged a nominal fee.

Spello, Italy

Spello, Italy

Spello is known as one of the most beautiful and flowery villages in Italy. It’s a charming, hilly, mostly car-free medieval village located 30 km southeast of Perugia. There are several beautiful churches including Santa Maria Maggiore and the views from the top are stunning. There are cute shops and restaurants, and a Enoteca Properzia, a lovely place to enjoy a glass of wine before venturing down the hill.

There is a free parking lot at the base of the village. Wear comfy shoes as the hills are steep but worth the climb.

Spoleto Cathedral, Duomo, Piazza del Duomo

Spoleto, Italy

35 km south of Spello is Spoleto, a sprawling historic village that wasn’t Terri’s favorite and she doesn’t recommend visiting. If you do decide to go, there are several paid parking lots around town as you navigate the city to find something charming like the Duomo di Spoleto shown above. There is a cafe on the piazza where you can get a coffee as you watch people in the plaza.

Other sites to see if you do choose to go to Spoleto:

—Basilica di San Pietro

—Roman amphitheater

—Church of San Salvatore

There were shops and restaurants in the village as you meandered through the streets.

Todi, Italy, Piazza del Popolo

Todi, Italy

45 km south of Perugia is Todi, another medieval Umbrian village with beautiful views, Piazza del Popolo (plaza of the people), restaurants, and shopping. The Todi Cathedral is a Gothic style church on the Piazza del Popolo and is worth walking through to enjoy the artwork and rose stained glass window. This is a small but quiet town that is easily visited in an afternoon, including lunch. Find a restaurant with views of the surrounding valley.

Pay attention to the parking and street signs and much is limited to locals.

Duomo di Orvieto

Orvieto, Italy

80 km south of Perugia is Orvieto, home to not only the Orvieto Cathedral (Duomo di Orvieto), but also an Etruscan necropolis (ancient burial site literally translated to city of the dead). If you park up at the top, the walk to the necropolis is over a mile and it is a very pretty hike. Just remember, it’s over a mile back up but still pretty and you can get close to the fortress walls.

If you wish to view the necropolis, stop at the snack bar on the way to Orvieto, park, and walk around the necropolis. Then continue on up to the base of the town to park in one of the paid parking lots. There’s a funicular that will take up to the village or you can walk. We recommend walking so you can enjoy all of Orvieto.

Do not miss the Duomo di Orvieto. If you walk around long enough, you can’t help but turn a corner and be stunned by this majestic, gothic cathedral. Pro tip: tickets to go inside can be purchased across the piazza from the cathedral. It costs around 5 or 7 euro and is well worth the price of admission.

There is a large clock tower, Torre del Moro, that you can climb and enjoy the views of the surrounding area. We heard it costs 5 euros per person.

Orvieto is halfway between Florence and Rome and nearly halfway between Perugia and Rome.

View of Perugia from across the valley

Resist the temptation to go to only go to Tuscany…everyone goes to Tuscany. Take a risk and explore all that Umbria has to offer. During our next trip, we are considering going to Gubbio, Norcia, Montefalco, Narni (the village that inspired CS Lewis…Narnia), Deruta, Lake Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago, Monti Sibillini, and Marmore Falls (Cascata delle Marmore). So many incredible choices!

To see more pictures and videos of Umbria, including some tips for traveling in the air, be sure to watch our video Enchanting Umbria: Exploring Assisi, Todi, Spoleto, Spello, and Orvieto.

Next
Next

Trip Planning: Your Ultimate Guide for Midlife Adventures